FAQ

HOW MUCH MATERIAL DO I NEED?
If you are using Aida the material will be measured in holes per inch (Hpi). Linen is categorised by a count size, for example a 28 count linen. When you use linen you normally stitch over two threads, so 28-count linen divided by 2 will give you 14 stitches per inch, which is the same as if 14 Hpi Aida was being used.
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To work out how much fabric is needed for a specific chart, you will need to find out the design size. For example, if the chart has a design of 59 x 39 squares, and it is recommended that 14 Hpi Aida should be utilised for that project, then use the following calculation: Divide the length (59) and the width (39) by the Hpi (stitch count) of 14. 59 divided by 14 = 4.21 inches, and 39 divided by 14 = 2.78 inches. The final size of the fished design would be approximately 4 ¼ x 2 ¾ or 10.7cm x 7.0 cm. (To convert inches to cm multiply the inches by 2.54). You would need to add at least 4 inches (10 cm) to each dimension to allow for framing, and an additional 3" (7.5 cm) for a mount 1 ½" (3.8 cm) wide, and 4" (10 cm) extra for a 2" (5 cm) wide mount.

WORKING ON DARK FABRIC
Have a light under the work, and a white cloth on your lap, to help you see the holes. Even if you are one of the people who simply hate using frames or hoops, I'm afraid this is the time to use one, as by stretching the material taut it is easier to see the holes. 
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KEEPING WORK FRAMED IN FLEXI-HOOPS
Before you frame the work put a piece of cling film over the work and frame both together, trapping the cling film between the two hoops. You can trim the cling film close to the back of the hoop. You can replace the cling film if it gets torn or grubby. 

ISOLATED SINGLE STITCHES
If your design has one or two isolated stitches on the background, and there are no other nearby stitches to which you can secure your thread by running it through the back of the stitches, try this Quick Tip. Fold a single strand in two, and thread the ends through the needle creating a loop at the other end. Make your stitch and then put the needle through the loop at the back of the work to secure the stitch. 

WASHING YOUR CROSS STITCHED WORK
  • Use only cold water for the wash and rinse. Make sure the sink and any containers you will use are clean.
  • Pre-rinse the piece under cold, running water.
  • Place in a soapy cold water and gently wash. Do not scrub. Avoid soaps that have additives such as fragrances, softeners, etc. Use only a small amount of detergent.
  • If needed, rinse and wash a second time. DO NOT WRING the water out; this is not necessary and can pull the stitches.
  • Rinse three times in cold water.
  • As you work, check carefully for any sign of colour bleeding, 'hoop marks' or other stains.
  • Remove the piece from the final rinse. Let the water drain out of the fabric.
  • Place the cross stitch on a dry bath towel, and roll up the towel (with the cross stitch still on the towel) gently pressing on the rolled up towel will remove all the water you need to remove. Repeat as necessary.
  • Unroll the towel. Lay the cross stitch face up on a dry section of the towel. If necessary, let the piece air dry until it is just damp but not dripping wet.
  • Once again, check for any stains or marks. Once you iron the piece, it will be even more difficult to remove any stains.
  • Place the cross stitch FACE DOWN on a DRY BATH TOWEL. Use an iron set to a low or medium temperature and lightly press the BACK of the cross stitch. If you have beads, special threads, etc. you want to be extra careful with this step. Keep the iron constantly moving. If you have not used that iron in a while, practice on a scrap piece of cross stitch fabric. Make sure the steam setting is 'off', and the iron is not 'spitting' steam. For the temperature setting, keep in mind the types of materials you used in the cross stitch; if there is any question, use a lower temperature

THREADING METALLIC THREADS
Cut a small strip of thin paper that, when folded, will fit through the eye of the needle. Fold the strip in half lengthways and lie the thread length along the fold. Push the end of the paper through the eye and the thread will be threaded with it. Remove the paper.

USING METALLIC THREADS
  • Keep thread lengths short to prevent them from getting tangled or shredded.
  • There are many different types of metallic threads, so make sure you use the right one for the job.
  • Run your needle along the underside of a thread length, as this will prevent it from twisting. Note this only suitable for metallic threads that do not have a natural twist.
  • Make sure you use the right size needle for the right thickness of the thread.
  • If you moisten a length of thread with a damp sponge this will tone down the thread's "springiness".
  • If you tie a small knot in the end of the thread near the needle it will stop it slipping through.
  • Don't let the metallic thread overwhelm the design. Be subtle in your choice of colours and the amount you use, so you enhance your stitching rather than detract from it.
  • Make sure you choose the thickness of the metallic thread that suits the fabric you are working on.
  • It is best to use a new needle when you start using metallic thread. An old needle's eye is likely to be uneven and a little worn which could cause damage to the delicate thread.

COTON PERLE
Coton Perle is a single strand cotton thread with a slight sheen, which is made in three different thicknesses: 3 - heavy, 5 - medium, 8 - fine. It can be used very effectively alongside needlepoint worked in tapestry or crewel wool to give a shiny contrast against the wool background. No. 5 is roughly the same thickness as crewel wool.